One of the first technique questions that comes up with MIG is do you push or pull when MIG welding, and the answer can make a big difference in how your welds turn out.
After spending years running MIG on everything from thin sheet metal to heavier metal thicknesses, it becomes clear that torch direction affects arc control, penetration, and bead appearance more than most people expect.
Many welders coming from stick get tripped up because MIG doesn’t follow the same rules. In most cases, MIG welding works best with a push technique, which improves gas coverage, keeps the puddle visible, and helps produce cleaner welds.
This matters in real-world fabrication because the wrong technique can lead to poor fusion, excess spatter, or weak joints. Stick around, and I’ll break down when to push, when pulling might make sense, and how to choose the right technique for stronger, cleaner MIG welds.
Photo by yeswelder
Understanding the Basics of Push and Pull in MIG Welding
MIG welding, or Metal Inert Gas welding, is all about feeding a continuous wire electrode through a gun while shielding gas protects the molten pool from contaminants. The technique you choose—pushing or pulling the gun—affects how the arc behaves, how heat distributes, and ultimately, the quality of your weld. It’s not about preference; it’s about matching the method to the job for optimal results.
Pushing means angling the gun forward, away from the weld pool, typically at 10-15 degrees. Pulling, or dragging, angles it back toward the completed weld at a similar angle. Why does this matter? In pushing, the gas shield leads the way, giving shallower penetration but a wider bead. Pulling digs deeper but can trap slag or cause more spatter if you’re not careful.
From my experience, beginners often default to pulling because it feels more natural, like dragging a pencil. But on thin sheet metal, that can burn through faster than you can say “patch job.” I’ve trained dozens of welders who started out pulling on everything, only to switch to pushing for cleaner results on auto body work.
What Does Pushing the MIG Gun Really Involve?
Pushing the gun means you’re directing the wire and arc ahead of the puddle. The gun tip points in the direction of travel, and you’re essentially shoving the weld forward. This creates a forehand technique where the shielding gas blankets the area before the arc hits, reducing oxidation and giving a flatter, more aesthetic bead.
How it works mechanically: As you move, the wire feeds into the leading edge of the pool, allowing heat to spread out. Penetration is shallower—great for avoiding burn-through on gauge metal—but fusion is solid if your settings are dialed in.
Use pushing when you’re welding thin materials like 16-gauge steel or aluminum sheets, especially in flat or horizontal positions. It’s my go-to for cosmetic welds on trailers or furniture frames where appearance counts. Why? Less heat input means minimal distortion, saving you from clamping headaches or post-weld straightening.
Shop tip: Keep your travel speed steady—about 10-15 inches per minute on mild steel. If the bead looks too convex or ropy, bump up your voltage a notch. I once pushed on a custom exhaust system; it laid down like butter, no warping on the thin tubing.
What About Pulling the MIG Gun?
Pulling flips the script: The gun angles back, dragging the puddle behind you. This backhand method concentrates heat into the base metal first, driving deeper penetration for thicker joints.
It works by letting the arc preheat the metal ahead while the wire fills from behind. The result? Stronger root fusion, but potentially more spatter and a narrower bead profile.
Pull when tackling heavy plate, like 1/4-inch or thicker steel, or when you need maximum strength in structural repairs. It’s ideal for vertical-up welds or when contamination is a risk, as the technique helps burn off mill scale.
In the shop, I pull on farm equipment fixes—think reinforcing plow blades where deep penetration prevents cracks under load. But watch for undercut; slow your speed if edges look gouged.
Early in my career, I pulled on a thin gate repair and blew holes everywhere. Lesson learned—match technique to material or pay the price in filler and time.
When Should You Push the MIG Gun for Best Results?
Pushing shines in scenarios where control and aesthetics trump raw strength. Think automotive panels, HVAC ducting, or light fabrication like bike racks.
Why choose it? Shallower penetration reduces warp on thin stock, and the wider bead covers joints evenly. Plus, better gas coverage means fewer porosity issues in windy shops.
Practical when: Welding aluminum, where heat sensitivity is high, or on galvanized steel to minimize zinc fumes. In overhead positions, pushing helps gravity pull the puddle right.
Tips from the floor: Angle at 10 degrees, use a push-pull motion if needed for long runs. Set wire speed to 250-350 IPM for 0.030″ wire on 1/8″ mild steel. I’ve pushed through countless sheet metal jobs; it keeps distortion low, cutting rework by half.
Common mistake: Too much angle leads to lack of fusion. Fix by practicing on scrap—aim for a bead that’s smooth, not stacked dimes unless you’re showing off.
When Is Pulling the Better Option in MIG Welding?
Pulling is your powerhouse for demanding jobs. Use it on thick materials or when building up fillets that need to withstand vibration, like in trailer hitches or machinery bases.
The why: Deeper penetration ensures the weld roots deep, reducing failure risks in load-bearing parts. It’s forgiving on dirty metal, as the arc cleans as it goes.
Best for: Out-of-position welding, like vertical or overhead on structural beams. In my shop, we pull on pipeline repairs—deep fusion means no leaks.
Shop advice: Maintain a 15-degree drag angle, travel slower at 8-12 IPM. For 0.035″ wire on 3/16″ plate, amp up to 150-180 amps. Watch spatter; anti-spatter spray is your friend.
Pitfall: Overheating thin edges. Test on similar scrap first. I once pulled too hot on a bracket; it warped bad—had to jig it next time.
Factors That Affect Whether You Push or Pull
No technique is one-size-fits-all. Material, position, and setup dictate your choice. Let’s dive into the key influencers.
Material Type and Thickness
Thin stuff? Push to avoid holes. On 20-gauge auto body, pushing with argon-mix gas gives clean, flat beads.
Thicker carbon steel? Pull for penetration. For stainless, pushing often works better to control heat and prevent carbide precipitation.
Aluminum calls for pushing almost always—its low melting point means pulling risks puddling. I’ve welded aluminum boats; pushing keeps hulls straight.
Tip: Match wire diameter to thickness. 0.023″ for ultra-thin, 0.045″ for heavy. Wrong size? Amperage won’t balance, leading to poor arc.
Joint Configuration and Preparation
Butt joints on flat stock? Either works, but push for cosmetics.
T-joints or laps? Pull for better fill in the root.
Prep matters: Bevel edges on thick joints for pulling. Clean with grinder—mill scale kills fusion.
In shop repairs, I bevel 30 degrees on 1/4″ plate before pulling; it ensures full penetration without excess filler.
Mistake: Skipping prep. Dirty joints cause porosity—grind, wire brush, done.
Welding Position and Environment
Flat/horizontal: Push for speed.
Vertical-up: Pull fights gravity better.
Overhead: Push if thin, pull if thick.
Windy outdoors? Pushing protects the gas shield more.
Pro tip: Clamp everything. Movement mid-weld ruins beads. I’ve lost count of warped frames from poor fixturing.
Setting Up Your MIG Welder Properly
Technique is useless without dialed-in settings. Let’s cover the essentials for US machines like Miller or Lincoln.
Choosing the Right Wire and Shielding Gas
Wire: ER70S-6 for mild steel, 0.030″ versatile for most jobs.
For aluminum, 4043 or 5356 alloy.
Gas: 75/25 argon/CO2 for steel—good penetration, low spatter.
Pure argon for aluminum.
Shop note: Store wire dry; rust kills feed. I use desiccants in my cabinet.
Amperage and Voltage Ranges
Base on wire and thickness. For 0.035″ on 1/8″ steel: 120-150 amps, 18-22 volts pushing; 140-170 amps pulling.
Thin sheet: Drop to 90-120 amps.
Test on scrap—too low, no fusion; too high, burn-through.
Anecdote: Over-amped a push weld once; spatter city. Dialed back, perfect.
Wire Feed Speed and Tension
300-400 IPM for general work. Sync with amps—faster for pushing to widen bead.
Tension: Just enough to feed without slipping. Loose? Birdnesting.
Tip: Clean liners monthly. Clogged ones ruin days.
Common Mistakes Welders Make with Push and Pull
Beginners push too shallow, missing fusion. Fix: Increase angle slightly.
Pros pull too fast on thin—holes galore. Slow down.
Both: Wrong gas flow (15-20 CFH ideal). Low flow? Porosity.
I’ve seen pros ignore position—pushing vertical leads to sagging. Adapt or rework.
Safety note: Always PPE—gloves, helmet, ventilation. Fumes from pulling on galvanized? Deadly—strip coating first.
Step-by-Step Guide to MIG Welding with the Push Technique
- Prep: Clean joint, clamp secure.
- Set: Wire speed 250 IPM, 110 amps, 19 volts for 16-gauge.
- Position: 10-degree push angle, contact tip 1/4″ from work.
- Start: Trigger, establish puddle, move forward steadily.
- Travel: Weave if needed for wider joints.
- End: Backstep to fill crater.
Post: Inspect for flat bead, no undercut.
I’ve used this on countless panels—consistent every time.
Step-by-Step Guide to MIG Welding with the Pull Technique
- Prep same as above.
- Set: 150 amps, 20 volts for 3/16″.
- Angle: 15 degrees back.
- Trigger, let arc preheat, drag slowly.
- Monitor: Deeper pool, adjust speed.
- Finish: Taper off to avoid cracks.
Ideal for reinforcements—strong, reliable.
Pros and Cons of Pushing vs. Pulling in MIG
Here’s a quick comparison table based on my shop experience:
| Aspect | Push Technique | Pull Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Penetration | Shallower, better for thin materials | Deeper, ideal for thick stock |
| Bead Appearance | Wider, flatter, more cosmetic | Narrower, convex, functional |
| Spatter | Less, cleaner workspace | More, needs anti-spatter |
| Distortion | Minimal, less warping | Higher, requires clamping |
| Speed | Faster travel possible | Slower for control |
| Best For | Sheet metal, aluminum, flat positions | Heavy plate, vertical, structural |
| Common Issues | Lack of fusion if too shallow | Burn-through on thin if too hot |
Use this to decide—I’ve referenced it mid-job plenty.
Troubleshooting Bad Welds from Wrong Technique
Porous bead? Check gas, or switch techniques if pushing in wind.
Undercut? Reduce travel speed, adjust angle.
Warped metal? Push instead, lower heat.
Fix: Grind defects, reweld correctly. Prevention beats cure—practice runs save material.
In repairs, wrong pull on thin exhaust? Patch with push next time.
Safety: Overheated guns burn hands—cool between passes.
Advanced Tips for Mixing Techniques in Complex Jobs
Some jobs blend both: Push for tacks, pull for fills.
On multi-pass, alternate for balance.
In my fab work, mixing on frames reduces stress cracks.
Experiment: Log settings in a notebook—my trick for consistency.
Filler compatibility: Match wire to base—ER308 for stainless.
Joint prep: V-groove for pulling thick.
US machines: Lincoln Power MIG great for variable settings.
Wrapping Up
I’ve welded everything from art sculptures (push for looks) to bridges (pull for strength). Adaptability keys success.
Remember those early blowouts? They taught me respect for basics. Now, with right technique, your welds will last, saving time and frustration. Always weave slightly on pushes for even heat—it’s the secret to pro-level beads without fancy equipment.
FAQs
Can you switch between push and pull mid-weld?
Absolutely, but only if needed for position changes. Stopping and restarting risks cold laps. Practice transitions on scrap to keep the puddle consistent. In shop, I do it on long seams—push flat, pull vertical.
What wire diameter works best for pushing in MIG?
Go with 0.030″ for most pushing on thin to medium stock. It’s forgiving on amps (100-140 range) and feeds smooth. Thinner 0.023″ for ultra-delicate, but birdnests easy if tension’s off.
Why does my MIG weld spatter more when pulling?
Pulling concentrates heat, vaporizing wire faster. Fix by upping gas to 25 CFH, using anti-spatter, or dropping amps 10%. Dirty wire? Clean or replace—I’ve tossed spools over rust.
Is pushing safer than pulling in MIG welding?
Pushing reduces fume exposure since the plume trails behind. But both need ventilation. Pulling on coated metals? More zinc smoke—mask up. Safety’s non-negotiable; I’ve seen guys skip it, regret later.
How do amperage settings change between push and pull?
Push lower: 90-130 amps for thin. Pull higher: 140-200 for depth. Always chart-based—Miller manuals are gold. Test dial in; wrong amps mean defects every time.